So why is it I love surfing so much? Well for way to many reasons to explain. Its like after a hard days work running out into the water and jumping onto the board feeling the cool water hit your body is so refreshing. Paddle out into the ocean leaving everything else behind is one of a kind. Its almost like when your out there no one else can bother you, not the world, my friends, my enemies, nothing just you and the water. I know that sounds corny but its true, there is nothing else like it.
I think its a lifestyle, one that most will never embrace. A lifestyle with no cares and just being chill going with the flow. Not being afraid to step out of line and a general unattached sense. Sort of an uncaring, willing to let everything just brush off your shoulder not concerned with everybodies fast paced lives and everything else that goes with that. Its a life of leisure and carelessness, just having fun and where ever you go is where you go. Not knowing what is next and not caring that every detail of your life is not planned. One of the guys off the Quicksilver Surf team put it best when said, “If you live life out of a book, you’ll never have fun.” So true!
I could be happy in some shanty with a board and the beach as my backyard. Nothing else would matter, of course some food and I guess if I had to a job… Other than that I could be pleased with just that, it would be even better if it was out in Cali or Hawaii or Fiji or something like that, but I would settle for Cape Hatteras North Carolina if I had to.
I miss it so much, now I live in Michigan and yeah there is not really any surf unless you want to have icicles hanging from your hair lol. Sad but true I guess the only time Grand Haven, MI gets good waves is when it is freezing cold. 😦